As a fashion editor, there are always some brands that I look forward to in every season of the fashion release. For example, Prada, not only does each series have a single product into my favorite list, the key is that it is also very "weird", and it will never be able to figure out what surprises there will be next season.
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To say that Prada is really a magical existence, not only passers-by and fans, but also designer colleagues often bring goods in person. Like Marc Jacobs, he makes his own brand of the same name, and the Prada single product is posted on ins. Another designer, Raf Simons, is a good friend of Miuccia Prada. She has been photographed many times wearing Prada in private. Perhaps it is not forgetting, there must be repercussions, this year he joined the Prada family as a joint creative director.
Interestingly, Raf Simons once said, “I would be very excited if Miuccia Prada were to design my personal brand for one season, and I could design for Marc Jacobs for one season, and Marc Jacobs for Prada for another season.” Miuccia Prada said. Agree.
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There are really no taboos in the brains of "genius designers".
During the special period of this year’s epidemic, the Prada 2021 Spring/Summer series just released two days ago, I once again saw Prada’s experimental —— THE SHOW THAT NEVER HAPPENED.
This is also the last series independently designed by Ms. Miuccia Prada, including the 2021 spring and summer menswear and womenswear preview series.
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I have always believed that Prada's artistry comes to a large extent from the dialectical view of the intellectuals of Miuccia. She can always think and interpret the present from a different perspective, and convey it through fashion.
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This time, Miuccia simply did it to the extreme. Not only did he define the theme of the series as Multiple Views, but also invited five video artists: Willly Vanderperre, Juergen Teller, Joanna Piotrowska, Martine Syms, and Terence Nance. Starting from a personal perspective, Complete freedom to create and interpret Prada in their hearts.
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Everyone has their own interpretation of clothing, giving the right to speak to the viewer. Miuccia respects the complexity and diversity of the viewer's vision in his own way.
As she said, “Once I create clothes, it means that these clothes no longer belong to me. It belongs to others and belongs to people’s lives.”
It belongs to the audience.
There is no show installation, no lighting, this series, the focus returns to the clothing itself, Miuccia uses simple "black, white, gray" to construct a pure world.
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For the men's clothing series, I saw the typical Prada tailoring style, with a neat silhouette and a slim fit. The traditional suits and leather fabrics present a high-level texture.
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Similar tailoring, placed on Prada's classic nylon and elastic materials and other innovative fabrics, it has a sense of leisure, and has the functions of sportswear and formal wear. Similar tailoring, placed on Prada's classic nylon and elastic materials and other innovative fabrics, it has a sense of leisure, and has the functions of sportswear and formal wear.
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The Prada Linea Rossa series inspired by sportswear is also quite pleasant to me. It combines classic fabrics, leather, cotton, and taffeta to create tooling, which guarantees functionality and a sense of the future.
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But what surprised me the most was a series of "private" looks, like a derivative fashion of underwear. Soft knitting, soft colors, and thin fabrics can hit the softest part of everyone's heart, whether visually, tactilely or psychologically.
And if you are familiar enough with Prada, you will see some of Prada's classic shapes at the end of the last century in this series, including the spliced pleated skirt when Miuccia's curtain call, almost a replica of the brand's first season of autumn and winter 1989 The version has the meaning of returning to the basics.
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In terms of bags, I have planted several styles, and they all have the opportunity to become an IT bag.
For example, the underarm bag made of patent leather is more elegant and retro than the nylon material of the two seasons of fire. In terms of color, in addition to black, there are white, mint green and coral pink.
There is also this men's bag, which retains the detachable nylon pendant pouch and Prada triangle logo on the shoulder strap, but the size and aspect ratio of the bag have been adjusted to make it more casual. Usually, clothing contains complex and multiplicity, and some of its characteristics are even self-contradictory. Fortunately, Prada this season conveys these possibilities through a brand-new display form.
Why is Prada so "elusive"?
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01
The "rebellious" gene
Most people are catching up with trends, and some people are born to create trends.
Miuccia Prada never cares about trends. On some levels, she is even against the trend. As she said, "Prada will never stop at the traditional definition of beauty, otherwise fashion will stand still."
Since she was a child, clothing has been a tool for her to express her rebellion. At that time, girls followed the trend to wear trousers, she liked short skirts, showing white socks.
To this day, "Prada length" skirts and all kinds of socks have become Prada logo items.
We often hear a sentence-You are what you wear (clothing like its person). It is also not true here in Miuccia Prada, "You can wear the most powerful skirt in the world and be a less powerful person; you can also dress like a little girl, but with a strong inside." Whatever you like to wear, you don’t need so many boxes.
Therefore, there are often girls on the Prada show wearing gentle skirts and “rigorous” ties; men's clothing can also draw inspiration from women's clothing, so there are many silhouette jackets and prints that can be worn by both men and women regardless of gender. vest.
Even Prada's iconic nylon material is also a testament to Miuccia's "rebellious".
At the beginning, nylon material had nothing to do with luxury. Miuccia broke the convention and took the lead in applying nylon to bags, challenging the so-called "cheap" and "luxury" inherent concepts.
Up to now, nylon material has been red for more than 30 years and has become Prada's invisible logo.
Why is the advanced aesthetic Prada popular?
To a large extent it is because its design not only does not seem to follow blindly at the moment, but also has a personality; looking back decades later, it will also stand the test of time.
Nowadays, many brands are pursuing fashionable sports style. Prada launched the Linea Rossa series as early as the 1990s. The commercials shot at that time are still very fashionable.
This year's Linea Rossa 2020 spring and summer series, Cai Xukun, Liu Haoran, and Zhou Yutong are all wearing it. This is the charm of "advanced aesthetics".
For example, the "It Bag" of the past two years-Re-Edition series, Sidonie bag, Bowling Bag, similar models appeared in the commercials as early as 2000, and it was also the smashing "Millennium Bag" that year.
This aesthetic that can stand the scrutiny of time actually confirms Miuccia Prada's interpretation of age and clothes from the side. She dislikes a point of view, that is, "When you think you can’t wear a certain piece of clothing, it’s just because that outfit doesn’t fit your age."
So Prada’s clothes can be worn by a 20-year-old model, and Miuccia Prada, 71, is also there. wear.
All-round aesthetics
Many friends around me will use Prada as an adjective. When they see certain things, even if they have nothing to do with fashion, they will blurt out-this is Prada. It can be seen that Prada is not only a brand, but also a complete set of aesthetic values. It organically combines fashion and culture by linking architecture, art, film, literature and other disciplines.
Before watching the show, I will carefully study the Prada show every season, which is usually designed by the famous interior design agency AMO. Like fashion, the well-arranged show is an indispensable part of the theme of the season.
The Prada Foundation in Milan, an old-fashioned building decorated with an all-gold facade, seems to transcend time and space and has a very visual impact.
The experimental architectural language of the Prada Foundation and Prada’s design philosophy are also in the same line. Therefore, the Deposito Hall of the Prada Foundation was previously installed as a show. The five short films of the 2021 spring and summer series are also from the Prada Foundation. Taken in different areas.
Today, the Prada Foundation has become an architectural and cultural landmark of Milan. The Prada Foundation Milan Pavilion, completed in 2015, has held art and cultural exhibitions throughout the year, and is regarded as a platform that reflects the pulse of the spirit of the times.
In Prada's commercials, I can always see new experiments and explorations. In the early autumn 2020 advertisement, black and white images have become a monochrome canvas for creation, filled with saturated colors, and the silhouettes, stitching and patterns of fashion constitute a "decomposed painting" frame, which is refreshing.
Earlier, the spring and summer series of blockbuster films took the literary and artistic route. The five letters of the brand, PRADA, became a hidden poem.
Miuccia is creative and avant-garde. At the same time, she also loves art and culture, and is passionate about repairing historical buildings. In Shanghai, China, the Prada Foundation spent 6 years repairing the Rongzhai, which was built in 1918. What I admire most is that there is a strong humanistic care in the restoration process, and every project will be based on the local culture. Start with, try to keep the original beauty.
For example, in the "Rongzhai" project, Prada re-assembled the disassembled Latin letters of the brand logo into Chinese characters, which is perfectly compatible with the structure of Chinese characters, and allows the audience to recognize at a glance that this is Prada.
Miuccia said: "The way to extraordinary possibilities may be hidden in those conservative and traditional
ideas, find them, and transform them." Challenge the convention, break the convention, I think this is the reason why Prada has always remained extraordinary.
