4.5 billion pairs of jeans are sold globally every year, but the environmental costs behind the popularity are little known. Here are 5 ways to teach you, you can buy good-wearing jeans, and you can be ashamed.
Although many people like to wear casual pants and cycling shorts during the epidemic, jeans are still a must-have item in the wardrobe. As many as 4.5 billion pairs of jeans are sold every year around the world, the environmental costs behind it are little known: the production of a pair of jeans alone consumes as much as 10,850 liters of water, and the production process is usually inseparable from harmful chemicals.
"The main fabric of jeans is natural cotton, which requires a lot of pesticides and fertilizers to grow," Laura Balmond, project manager of Make Fashion Circular for the Allen MacArthur Foundation, told Vogue. "Making jeans consumes a lot of chemicals and synthetic dyes. Jeans need to be washed multiple times to show the desired color, and then acid, chemical bleach and stone washing are used to give the denim a specific look.
Therefore, the Allen MacArthur Foundation launched The Jeans Redesign (jeans redesign) initiative in 2019, which aims to solve the pollution, waste and harmful behaviors caused by jeans production. The guidelines of the initiative stipulate that brands must comply with minimum requirements in terms of materials, durability, recyclability, and traceability. Brands that have signed the initiative include Gap, Wrangler and Lee.
In addition, a wave of new denim brands are trying to produce denim products in a more ethical and sustainable manner. Australian brand Outland Denim-celebrity fans including the Duchess of Sussex-use innovative technology to reduce the environmental impact of jeans. "Compared with traditional production methods, we can save 86% of water, 57% of energy and 83% of chemicals," the Queensland-based founder and CEO James Bartle explained in an email. The brand is also actively expanding its social influence, hiring Cambodian seamstresses to help them escape their disadvantaged position.
At the same time, the British brand ELVDenim is committed to giving new life to a large number of idle denim products, combining two pairs of jeans or jackets to create new works. "Let old fabrics shine with new life, this is in my heart," Anna Foster, the founder of the brand in London, said on the phone, "I hope to turn [a pair of] jeans into something that everyone loves again."
Considering the huge number of denim products produced every year, each of us has the responsibility to learn to buy jeans in a sustainable way. Investing in environmentally friendly brands and buying second-hand denim underwear are all good choices. Five methods are listed below for your reference.
1. Choose organic natural fiber
Compared with traditional cotton, organic cotton uses 91% less "blue water" (fresh water or groundwater), and it is better to use it to make jeans. Other plant fibers, such as lychee fiber or hemp fiber, consume less water and are also an environmentally friendly choice.
Try to buy jeans that are as close to 100% natural fiber as possible because they are easier to recycle from a long-term perspective. "Jeans Redesign guidelines stipulate that at least 98% of fabrics must be cellulose-based [plant-based] fabrics." Balmond said.
2. Avoid stretch denim
Stretch denim is made of a blend of cotton and polyester, and it is best to avoid it. Mixing natural and synthetic fibers makes it difficult to recycle, and polyester also releases harmful microplastics during washing. "For jeans that mix different materials in the fabric, such as polyester stretch fiber and cotton, [almost no] feasible recycling options." Balmond explained.
Fortunately, brands like Stella McCartney are developing more environmentally friendly alternatives. The designer collaborated with the Italian denim company Candiani earlier this year to launch the world's first biodegradable plant fiber stretch denim.
3. Look for safe and water-saving treatment processes
The large amounts of chemicals used to dye and process jeans have caused tremendous damage to the environment, polluting vital waterways for local communities. Therefore, we must look for jeans that have passed Bluesign or OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification to avoid harmful chemicals.
Also choose brands that use low-water dyeing processing technology. "Under conditions, we use SaveBlue dye. Compared with the traditional dyeing process, this dye can save 87.5% of water." Bartle said, "The new technology can not only greatly reduce water consumption, but also reduce energy and chemicals. usage of."
4. Buy vintage or upgrade jeans
Considering the number of jeans available, buying second-hand goods is still one of the most environmentally friendly practices. According to WRAP, extending the life of a piece of clothing by 9 months can reduce its carbon footprint and water footprint by 20%-30%—upgraded products have the same effect. "Denim is one of the most durable fabrics; it is designed for workwear after all," Foster explained. "There are too many jeans in the world; you can buy them at all price points."
5. Properly maintained
Proper maintenance can also extend the life of jeans. Don't over-wash, which saves water and reduces the emission of microplastics. "Only wash it when you need it," Bartle suggested. "Also, the less the denim is washed, the more it will stand the test of time."
If the pants are torn, don't throw them away. Wearing them after repairing can extend their service life and reduce the overall impact on the environment. "Patch can also be very creative; make jeans full of personality." Foster said.
